TV recommendations Options

[Oasis]

Looking to buy a new TV finally and I don't know jack about televisions.

Price isn't really an issue, although I'd like to keep it around $2000 or so since I don't watch a whole lot of TV nor play video games. It needs to be HD since I don't feel like paying extra after 2/11/09. Plus I think you have to have HD to play a PS3, and I wanna get one so I can play that game that looks like Tomb Raider

I'm basically looking for the best combination of size and picture quality for $2000 or so. Any recommendations would be appreciated

[cmac]

i just bought this:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?sk...d=1169512521541

i could not be more happy. pm impala. i think this is his area.

[impala454]

First a quick word on 2009:
Keep in mind that the 2009 FCC stuff has nothing to do with HD. The analog shutoff thing does not affect anyone but those who receive their signal over the air (OTA) via an antenna. Basically all it means is your generic OTA programming will be broadcast digitally on a different band (high UHF). It does not mean everything will be in HD, or that your TV will no longer work. If you use satellite or cable, you're completely unaffected. Also, every TV manufactured since late 2006 has a digital tuner (look for the words ATSC) built-in as required by law now. If you are one of the few in the stone age still recieving your TV OTA and do not have a digital tuner built in, the govt will be supplying every household in the US with two $40 coupons to go out and get a tuner (which are rumored to cost around $40). You will even be able to use your existing antenna, so long as you recieved UHF channels ok. The whole idea behind this is to free up that large range of analog signals for future use with wireless internet and for government emergency responder use (police, fire, etc).

There are a few things to consider on new TVs. Size of picture, size of the cabinet, where it will be placed, brand, and resolutions.

1. size of picture: Up to you really, but you can always go bigger for the same money with DLP. DLPs kick ass, have the best picture quality, and are the best bang for the buck. That being said, they're bulkier, and much more complicated and have issues that can come up. You have lamps (~100-200) you'll have to replace eventually (I have had my DLP for over a year and have yet to replace one). Some don't like this but IMHO it's great because it's like having a brand new TV again. For 2k you can get in the neighborhood of 60" in a DLP. While they are large TVs they do not weigh as much as they look like they do. DLP has zero possibility of burn in.

LCDs will obviously be much thinner, but your 2k will only get you around 46" or so. The LCD will be a more foolproof TV and obviously is much thinner and can be mounted on the wall. While there are no lamps to replace, the backlight will fade eventually, but probably so far down the road you won't care or even notice (think ~8 years depending on how much you watch). People will tell you LCDs cannot burn-in, and I'll invite all of them over to see the extremely slight World of Warcraft minimap circle that has ever so slightly burned into one of my computer LCDs. Probably not a big issue, but seeing as you're a ESPN junkie, you might not wanna leave it on ESPN news w/the ticker for 3 weeks straight w/o turning it off.

Plasma- I wouldn't even bother with. They're fine, but are being phased out, and really only served the purpose of being the cheaper alternative to LCDs when LCDs were crazy expensive. Regardless of what people say about new technology, they can burn in.

2. Whatever you get, be absolutely sure you get a 1080p TV. Some TVs will say 1080p on the box but not truly be 1080p. They can get away with this by saying that the TV "accepts" a 1080p signal. In reality it takes the 1080p signal and downconverts it. You'll know for sure if it is a true 1080p TV by seeing the resolution listed as 1920x1080. If you really want it to be future proof look for 120Hz in the listing as well. It's not that big of a deal though.

Anyhow yeah the one cmac posted is excellent. The Toshiba Regzas are good as well. Pretty much any of the major brands are good. I personally like Samsungs the best, as they are an actual LCD manufacturer. Meaning the LCD panel inside the TV was made by Samsung. Most other brands buy their panels from Samsung or other manufacturers. Other brands like Westinghouse and Vizio are awesome as well, while a little lower on the totem pole.

So after babbling, to make a long story short:
DLP: Huge size for the money, amazing picture quality, eternal lifespan given replaceable backlight systems.
LCD: Rock solid, also amazing picture quality, thinner and wall-mountable.

After you get one let me know the brand & model# and I'll find you the AVS calibration settings for that particular TV. The out of the box settings with most TVs suck ass and these simple settings will make the picture quality blow your mind.

edit: If anyone has a HDTV and wants me to help them find the basic calibrated settings, post your brand & model# here or PM it to me and I'll help you get them.

[impala454]

Also just to add a little more on DLPs, they main problem they can get is that the cabinet geometry could be slightly off from the factory, which results in slight curves or bows on the screen (very hard to notice, but once you do its annoying). If you go the DLP route, be aware that you may have to exchange the set if this occurs. Most of the DLP manufacturers have a tolerance of like 5mm or something, and the stores seem to have no problems swapping yours out for a new one. Just be prepared for the possibility. If you want to avoid any problems at all, just go with LCD and you'll be fine.

IMHO DLPs are amazing, just require a little TLC to get started up. I personally did not have any problems with mine, but know a couple people who have had the bowing issue with their new set and had to have it swapped for a new one. Once you have a good set with the calibrated settings, I'd put it up against anything else on the market.

[Oasis]

God damn Chuck, I guess you know a thing or two about TV's. Thanks for the advice. You probably saved me like 3 hours worth of research

[impala454]

No prob bob I'm an insane (to the point of obsession) home theater & consumer electronics junkie so any questions on TVs, recievers, dvd, high def, speakers, surround sound, anything, post em up. I've recently gotten into the DIY speakers world and it's pretty neat. building speakers for $400 that blow away $4,000 speakers is pretty enticing . I'll post up some of my projects when I get them finished.

[Jim]

No prob bob I'm an insane (to the point of obsession) home theater & consumer electronics junkie so any questions on TVs, recievers, dvd, high def, speakers, surround sound, anything, post em up. I've recently gotten into the DIY speakers world and it's pretty neat. building speakers for $400 that blow away $4,000 speakers is pretty enticing . I'll post up some of my projects when I get them finished.

What type of speaker? Electro-static or cone?

[impala454]

Cone, although the design I'm working on right now uses a ribbon tweeter. I'm not actually building drivers though. Basically there's a few small groups of people who are very good at this stuff, and design box, crossover & driver combos that kick ass. There's lots of amplifier designs out there too and I'll probably give those a try eventually too.

[impala454]

Here's the page of the designers: http://www.geocities.com/cc00541/index.html. Very well documented designs.

The current one I'm working on is "The Statements Center Channel" then I'll build the rest of "The Statements".

I built the "TriTrix" 8ohm design as a cheap test to shape up the old woodworking and soldering skills.

[Oasis]

What's the difference between 720p and 1080p?

[Mommy]

I think most people go 1080p these days but I could be wrong. Like I thought the typical used to be 1080i then 720p and now its 1080p but im probably wrong.

[Oasis]

Is it picture quality or some shit?

And change of plans. I'm want something around 37 inches and $1k. The guy I'm moving in with already has a 62 inch (SCORE)

[Mommy]

From what I just read it seems as though 1080p has better resolution but is it worth the extra money

http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-6449_7-6810011-1.html

This has a lot of info

[pebkac]

Yeah, for example 720p means that there 720 pixels going vertically. The p stands for progressive scan and the i stands for interlaced. 1080i draws every other pixel so that the picture would look something like this if you slowed it down:




To make a long story short, it goes 720p->1080i->1080p.

This post has been edited by pebkac: Jan 9 2008, 10:20 PM

[impala454]

pebkac has it right. It basically comes down to resolution & refresh rate. Keep in mind that all HD content on TV is currently either 720p or 1080i, there are no broadcast 1080p channels yet. Progressive signals (aka 720p, 1080p) tends to be better for sports, which is why ESPNHD and similiar channels are broadcast in 720p, while most other HD channels will be in 1080i. You can tell the difference because you see really fluid motion in the sports, but then are wowed by the detail on discovery or other channels.

Now if you get a 720p TV, it will be capable of displaying the 1080i channels, but they will be downconverted by the TV to 720i.

This being said, 1080p channels are not far off, and game systems like Xbox 360 and PS3, as well as Blu-ray players all are 1080p capable. Also, with 1080p sets, any interlaced signals (480i, 1080i) will be de-interlaced and upconverted to 1080p. The better brands like Samsung and Toshiba will have excellent de-interlacers in them and will make standard TV look better.

Basically Will, just get a 1080p TV . The difference between 720p & 1080p is only a few hundred bucks or a few inches in screen size.